Three Days in Naples, Italy: The Gritty Quartieri Spagnoli and Castel Sant’Elmo

This is part of a continuing series of photographs from my 21-day, three country, five city
winter vacation to Europe with my ladyfriend Serena.
Today’s post continues our tour of Naples with a stroll through the Quartieri Spagnoli and a hike to the Castel Sant’Elmo

Quartieri Spagnoli (Spanish Quarters)

I’m just gonna come right out and say it: The Quartieri Spagnoli in Naples is absolutely bonkers. Gritty, colorful, crowded, chaotic; packed with small restaurants, cafes and shops selling everything from clothing (not to mention an insane abundance of Diego Maradona shirts and jerseys!) to fruit and fresh meats. All this within dimly-lit, barely 10-foot wide(!) streets that still allows car and motorcycle traffic to maneuver their way through the crowds, blaring their horns as they go.

It’s insane. And that’s pretty much what made it so wonderful.
 

 
The Quartieri Spagnoli (Spanish Quarters) has been painted for many years as a place to avoid, one of the most dangerous areas of Naples. Fortunately, in recent years, the neighborhood has experienced a revival of sorts and has become one of the main tourist attractions of the city; a place made up of narrow alleys, clothes hanging in the sun, small taverns – elements that best represent the soul of Naples and the Neapolitans.
 

 
The Spanish Quarters trace their roots to the period when Naples was under Spanish rule from 1503 to 1707. During this time, the city became a crucial military and administrative center for the Spanish Viceroyalty, with the Spanish army playing a prominent role in daily life. To accommodate soldiers and their families, the intricate labyrinths of the Spanish Quarters were constructed, sprawling at the foot of the Sant’Elmo hill.
 

 
With the arrival of the soldiers, the network of narrow streets became a hotbed for illegal economic activities. From cigarette smuggling, drug dealing and prostitution, to the presence of the Camorra, a Neapolitan mafia organization, the quarter has earned a reputation as a neighborhood to avoid while visiting Naples – a reputation that only in the last few years has begun to change.
 


 
The area, encompassing approximately 800,000 square meters, consists of a grid of around eighteen streets by twelve, including a population of some 14,000 inhabitants. Housing density, outdated infrastructure, and poverty continue to impact the daily lives of residents. However, the community of the Spanish Quarters is known for its resilience and solidarity.
 

 
The Quartieri Spagnoli constitute a historically and artistically significant nucleus of the city of Naples, offering various insights into local popular culture and Neapolitan lifestyle. Examples include the presence of small artisan workshops, the characteristic bassi napoletani (traditional ground-floor dwellings), and narrow, dimly lit alleys featuring steep staircases and clothes hanging out to dry between buildings.

Murale Diego Armando Maradona

The mural of Diego Maradona in the Quartieri Spagnoli was created by local artist Mario Filardi in 1990, when Maradona was at the height of his career and had led Naples to two Italian championships (Scudetti). Maradona, who came from a humble background in Argentina, became an idol of the working class in Naples. His story of hardship and triumphant rise resonated with the population, who often perceived themselves as outsiders in the rest of Italy.
 

 
Carrying just my Xiaomi 13 Ultra to be better able to move freely (Serena decked out with her Sony a7III), this was one of the few times I wish I had brought along my Sony a7RV. These streets just had too much going on for a camera phone, even one as capable as the Xiaomi. This is truly the beating heartbeat of this dynamic city. It might not be to everyone’s taste but if you want to really submerge yourself in Naples, this is the place to visit.
 

Tales From the Street

Serena and I (probably unwisely) wandered around the neighborhood through some less busy streets until it got dark, then stumbled upon one of the historic churches of Naples, Chiesa di Santa Maria del Carmine alla Concordia, which was erected in 1556. Needless to say, we ultimately found our way home without incident.
 

As for the Quartieri Spagnoli, we never felt unsafe (the streets were packed with people) even when we ventured off the more beaten paths. So, should you find yourself one day in Naples, do not pass up the opportunity to put your finger on the pulse of this vibrant city. 

Galleria Umberto I

Just a short walk five-minute walk south from Quartieri Spagnoli on Via Toledo you’ll find the Galleria Umberto I, a public shopping gallery located directly across from the San Carlo opera house. It was built between 1887 and 1890, and was the cornerstone in the decades-long rebuilding of Naples (called the “risanamento”) that lasted through World War I.
 

It was designed in the Stile Umbertino (a 19th-century style of Renaissance Revival architecture in Italy) by Emanuele Rocco, who employed modern architectural elements reminiscent of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan.
 

The Galleria was named after Umberto I, King of Italy at the time of construction. It was meant to combine businesses, shops, cafés and social life—public space—with private space in the apartments on the third floor. It’s also a hub of cultural vitality, hosting frequent events ranging from art exhibitions to musical performances…
 

…such as the (most likely “unofficial”) one we stumbled upon.

Castel Sant’Elmo Naples

The star-shaped Castel Sant’Elmo was originally a 10th-century church dedicated to St Erasmus. The first documentation of Castel Sant’ Elmo dates back to the second half of the 13th century. Charles of Anjou (King of Sicily from 1266 to 1285) commissioned the architect and sculptor Tino di Camaino to begin work on Castel Sant’ Elmo in 1329.
 


Between 1537 and 1547 Viceroy Don Pedro de Toledo included it in a comprehensive scheme designed to fortify the land perimeter of the city, based on four separate strongholds. Castel Sant’Elmo acquired its hexagonal star shape between 1537 and 1547 under the designs of Pedro Luis Escriva from Valencia, a military architect.
 


In 1587 the munitions depot of the castle was struck by lightning and exploded, destroying the church, the chaplain’s house and the officers’ quarters. Reconstruction was carried out between 1599 and 1601 under the architect Domenico Fontana. Despite successive rebuilding over the centuries, the castle conserves its original structure.
 


It continued to be military property until 1976, when a large restoration project was undertaken after which the Castel Sant’Elmo became the headquarters of the Polo Museale della Campania, the museum network of Campania. It’s now famed for its jaw-dropping panorama, which takes in much of the city, its bay, islands and beyond.
 



The Naples castle is located on top of the Vomero hill making it a steep uphill climb to visit the castle from the old town. The easiest way is to use one of the three funiculars that ascend Mount Vomero, of which the ‘Funicolare di Montesanto’ will stop the most closest. Or just make it easy on yourself and call an Uber from your hotel like we did…
 




In the upper fortress, you’ll a find the giant Roman-style aluminum helmet “Elmo” (Helmet) by Mimmo Paladino, one of Italy’s most prolific and imaginative contemporary artists…
 



On the Castle’s parade ground, “Tempo Interiore” by Neapolitan artist Rosy Rox, was the winning work of the second edition of “Un’opera per il Castello” competition, an international competition that selects works by young artists. The installation positions three forceful blades in place of the second, minute and hour hands of the Piazza d’Armi clock which retrace the long, painful history of the city.

Museo del Novecento

Castel Sant’Elmo also features an excellent contemporary art museum, the Museo del Novecento. Inaugurated in 2010, it houses a collection of over 170 works including paintings, sculptures and installations by Neapolitan artists documenting the Neapolitan artistic evolution from 1910-1980.

Pizza/Pasta?

I’m a photographer, not a foodie. I keep it simple when it comes to what I’m willing to pay for a good meal – especially if I don’t know what it is or what it tastes like. That said, there are a few places where we ate that I’d recommend, all a short walk from our hotel, the five-room Duomo House located in the very heart of the old town…
 

Trattoria Don Vincenzo – a small joint with limited seating but their Pennette alla Bolognese was so good we ate their twice…
 

Cala la Pasta, another small joint with simple and, as you can see, deliziosa pasta.
 

Antica Pizzeria Di Matteo offers several very good award-winning pizzas (but it ain’t a NYC pizza – just saying)
 

That’ll do it for our three days in Naples. We endured some rain and a generational cold front (or so we were told) but this is one of the most exciting cities I’ve ever visited. As the Italians say, “vedi Napoli e poi muori” – Don’t die until you get to know it.
And yes, it definitely requires more than three days to visit so maybe we’ll be back one day…

Our next stop will be the charming city of Bath so SUBSCRIBE HERE to not miss it. All the cool kids have already done it. Just saying…All photographs taken with the Xiaomi 13 UltraFor more information on the city of Naples, check out the official visitors guide