This is a continuing series of photographs from our Galicia Road Trip (with a few stops in Asturias) this past August.
So, after a few posts from a recent trip to New York City and a visit to the historic city of St. Augustine, Florida, we now pick up where we left off on our road trip through Galicia, Spain. In my last posts in this series, we spent several days in the absolutely charming coastal towns of Noia and Muxía.
Our next stop was about a 75 minute drive NE to A Coruña, the 2nd largest city in Galicia (not to mention the richest region of Galicia). A Coruña is a bustling, modern city in Northwest Spain (about an hour drive north of Santiago de Compostela) with upscale hotels, trendy shops and restaurants – and wait, what’s that I hear? Is that someone actually speaking English? Why, yes it is.
We arrived in A Coruña on August 9th and we were only staying for two nights and I wasn’t going to not stay right on the beach (gotta keep the ladyfriend happy, you know?) so I reserved our stay at the newly renovated Hotel Riazor in a suite overlooking the beach. And when I say “overlooking the beach”, I mean overlooking the beach. Behold…
Facing the Atlantic Ocean, A Coruña is a city whose history is closely intertwined with its ancient fishing and trading port. And despite its more modern appearance, the peninsula on which the Old Town sits is home to a fascinating Romanesque ensemble of medieval streets, squares and churches. The city is the provincial capital of the province of A Coruña, having also served as political capital of the Kingdom of Galicia from the 16th to the 19th centuries.
Oh, and it’s also the place where my mother (who was born in Galicia) and my father (who was born in Puerto Rico) spent their honeymoon in 1965. Pretty cool.
Palacio Municipal de A Coruña
Although A Coruña may have begun as a Celtic settlement, the city began to take on greater historical importance in Roman times, when the port became a key location in navigation routes. This period is attested by the Tower of Hercules, the oldest working Roman lighthouse in the world and the symbol of the city.
Torre de Hércules
After the Muslim invasion, Norman raids, Viking attacks, Anglo-Spanish War, Peninsular War (in which A Coruña was the only Galician city that achieved success against the French troops), the Great Depression and the Spanish Civil War (every European country has a similar story, no?), the 1960s and early 1970s saw a dramatic economic recovery. But it was after the death of Spanish dictator Francisco Franco in 1975 when the city of A Coruña (and Vigo) left all the other Galician cities behind.
A Coruña is nowadays the richest region of Galicia and is its economic engine. Companies have grown, especially in sectors such as finance, communication, planning, sales, manufacturing and technical services, making A Coruña the wealthiest metropolitan area of Galicia. And with a population of 249,255, it’s the 2nd-largest city in Galicia behind Vigo.
We arrived as the city was just kicking off the 175th edition of its annual Fiestas de María Pita, a full month of concerts, fairs, exhibitions, and cultural activities open to all citizens. This festival, which runs from August 1-31, is the first festival in Spain dedicated to a civilian woman, honoring María Pita as a symbol of the city.
Monument to María Pita by sculptor José Castiñeiras Iglesias
So who is María Pita, you ask? Well, back on May 4 of 1589, with King Philip II of Spain and Queen Elizabeth I of England at war, English forces had taken control of the city. María’s husband, Gregorio de Rocamonde, an army captain, was slain by British soldiers while defending the city. María didn’t like that very much. And as they say, hell hath no fury…
Legend has it that María picked up a spear, joined the battle, then ran the aforementioned spear through the torso of an English soldier, shouting, “Quen teña honra, que me siga!” (Whoever has honor, follow me!). This turned the tide of the conflict completely, so much so that, according to legend, the English fled. This feat was brought to the attention of the Spanish king, who awarded María the title of ‘soldier of distinction’ and granted her a pension.
Today, María Pita is a symbol of resistance, strength and bravery for Galicians. In A Coruña she has her own statue, located in the center of a square named after her, and even a museum, the Casa Museo María Pita.
Iglesia de San Jorge
Very close to the emblematic Plaza de María Pita is the Church of San Jorge, a jewel of Galician baroque steeped in history. The parish dates back to the 14th century, with early references found in the will of the priest of San Nicolao in 1399. The church, designed by Domingo de Andrade and built by Clemente Fernández Sarela, began its history in 1725.
Initially a Jesuit convent, it was transformed into an Augustinian convent after the expulsion of the Jesuits from Spain in 1767. This period saw significant modifications, including the embellishment of its interiors and the construction of the north tower, completed in 1760.
In front of the church, you’ll notice a granite cross surrounded by statues of Saint Roch, Saint Lucy, Saint Margaret, and Saint Nicholas. The façade of the Church of San Jorge is a Baroque masterpiece, with a prominent central section also designed by Clemente Fernández Sarela. Its design recalls the facade of the Obradoiro of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.
Inside, visitors can admire a collection of polychrome wooden sculptures, including depictions of the Immaculate Conception, Saint Augustine, Saint Francis Xavier, and Our Lady of Consolation.
The 19th century brought challenges, as the church faced potential demolition. However, the resilience of the parish community preserved the structure, allowing St. George’s Church to remain a vital spiritual and cultural landmark. The construction of the south tower in 1906 marked the completion of this architectural gem. Recognized for its cultural significance, the church was declared a Site of Cultural Interest in 1975.
Here are a few additional images of this impressive church…
Tales from the Street
