Three Awe-Inspiring Weeks in Portugal (Part 8): The Alcobaça Monastery

In my continuing series of photographs from my three week trip to Portugal back in December 2022 – January 2023 (and yes, I know we’re in May), we drive about an hour north from our last stop, the majestic Palácio de Mafra to our next destination, the imposing Mosteiro de Santa Maria de Alcobaça (Alcobaça Monastery).

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Mosteiro de Alcobaça is one of the most impressive and beautiful testimonies of the Cistercian architecture throughout Europe. Its church is the first and largest in primitive Gothic style, built in Portugal during the Middle Ages.

Alcobaça Monastery

The monastery was established in 1153 by the first Portuguese king, Afonso Henriques, nicknamed “the Conqueror” for his role in reclaiming the Iberian Peninsula from the Moors. He achieved the independence of the County of Portugal, establishing a new kingdom and doubling its area with the Reconquista.

Construction began in 1178 and ended about 100 years later. At the time, the master masons of the Order of Cîteaux were experimenting with a new “mode” of construction – Gothic – introducing this architectural language into Portuguese territory. Still retaining its authenticity, the Monastery of Alcobaça has been spared any major alterations in almost 900 years of its existence.

But there’s something more about this monastery that makes it more fascinating than the 999 monks that once lived here – the tragic love story of Inês de Castro and Peter I of Portugal. More on that as you scroll through the photographs…

Igreja de Santa Maria de Alcobaça

The Monastery’s Church is the first Gothic Portuguese church and, after 800 years, still the largest Portuguese church. It stands out for its large dimensions (106 m x 23 m) and its noticeable elegance, with great pillars and truncated columns. The grand central nave, stripped of any adornment, gives a sense of elevation and spirituality. The construction was inspired by the French Cistercian Abbey of Clairvaux (now mostly demolished).

Intricately carved Manueline doorway to the sacristy…

Death of St. Bernard altarpiece: The Alcobasa Monastery is one of the first buildings associated with the Cistercian Order in Portugal. It was actually founded as a gift from King Afonso I to Bernard of Clairvaux, following the king’s conquest of the city of Santarém from the Moors in March 1147. Saint Bernard was an abbot, mystic, and co-founder of the Knights Templar, a military order of the Catholic faith.

Statue of Santa Maria de Alcobaça

Sala dos Reis (Room of the Kings)

The Room of the Kings, located next to the entrance to the church, houses 19 statues from the 17th and 18th centuries representing the kings of Portugal and includes the allegory to the coronation of King Afonso Henriques by Pope Alexander III and by São Bernardo.

Refectory

The refectory was the room in which the monks had their meals every day. While they ate, one of the monks read aloud passages of the Bible from a pulpit.

Cloister of Silence

The cloister of the monastery was built during the reign of, and sponsored by, King Dinis I, the eldest son of Afonso III of Portugal . The builder was the Portuguese architect Domingo Domingues. It is one of the largest mediaeval Cistercian cloisters in Europe.

The Cloister of the Cardinal is not open to the public but can be viewed from the balcony.

The Royal Tombs

Remember when I mentioned the tragic love story of Inês de Castro and Peter I of Portugal earlier in this post? The couple rests in the Monastery of Alcobaça, in magnificently carved tombs which are considered masterpieces of Portuguese Gothic sculpture. Their legendary love story, however, makes Romeo and Juliet seem like J.Lo’s ‘Maid in Manhattan’.

It all started in the 14th century when Prince Pedro (1320-1367), who was at the time the rightful heir to the throne, met Constança from the Castela Kingdom, whom he was expected to marry in an arranged marriage. Pedro, however, fell in love with one of Contança’s maids; her name was Inês de Castro (1320 or 1325-1355) and she reciprocated the prince’s love.

Tomb of King Pedro I

Now, Inês de Castro was a Galician noblewoman born of Pedro Fernández de Castro, nicknamed el de la Guerra (‘of the War’), a powerful Galician noble and military figure. Her mother, Aldonça Lourenço de Valadares, was the noble Portuguese mistress of her father Pedro. Galicia is where my mother was born so you know I’m already pulling for Inês.

Pedro and Inês had a secret affair which became public as soon as Queen Constança died giving birth to Pedro’s child. Her death made Pedro feel comfortable enough to make his relationship official, despite his father forbidding him to marry Inês. Nevertheless, Pedro and Inês decided to live together in Coimbra and had four children of their own.

King Afonso IV, Pedro’s father, after several failed attempts to keep the lovers apart amid growing concerns that Pedro and Inês illegitimate children were now heirs to the throne, had Inês murdered (decapitated!) before her children’s eyes.

Tomb of Inês de Castro

Pedro became furious and wanted to start a war with his father, but his mother, Queen Beatriz, appealed for peace and made her son reconsider revenge against his father and the men who killed his beloved Inês.

Two years after Inês’ death, however, Afonso died and Pedro became king. He immediately ordered Inês’ body to be disinterred and her corpse dressed in finery. Pedro then crowned her as queen, making her the first and only Portuguese queen crowned after her death. Oh, and the men who killed his beloved? Let’s just say they didn’t die of old age. Peter ordered their arrest and had them publicly executed by ripping their hearts out(!). This action earned him the title of “the Cruel”.

King Pedro made sure this royal title was visible on her tomb and then ordered that his tomb to be next to hers, to stay side by side for eternity. The tombs were constructed between 1358 and 1367, situated face to face rather than side by side. Inês is in the north arm and Pedro in the south one.

King Pedro made sure this royal title was visible on her tomb and then ordered that his tomb to be next to hers, to stay side by side for eternity. The tombs were constructed between 1358 and 1367, situated face to face rather than side by side. Inês is in the north arm and Pedro in the south one.

They’re made with limestone from Coimbra and are executed in Gothic style. They have lying statues of King Pedro and Inês de Castro, both crowned. Surrounding the statues are six angels in each tomb, who are taking care of the creases of the royal clothes and raising the heads of the dead a bit higher up as if to make their sleep more comfortable.

One thing I found interesting from the tombs was the young puppy at the feet of the tomb of Inês and the grown dog at Pedro’s feet. Needless to say, the tombs and the story behind them left an indelible impression on my daughter and I. Long live love…

Back outside, Christmas decorations lined the plaza in front of the monastery. We sat outside a small café across the street from the monastery and watched Argentina beat France via penalty kicks to win the World Cup (to the chagrin of many of the viewers) before getting back in our car and heading to our next stop, Coimbra. SUBSCRIBE HERE to not miss it…

Photographs taken with the Sony a7RIII using the travel friendly Sony FE 24-105mm f/4 G lens, the Tamron 17-28mm f/2.8 lens, the Samyang 14mm f/2.8 lens and, in some cases, the very capable iPhone 13 Pro

Planning a trip to Portugal? Check out visitportugal.com

PREVIOUS POSTS IN THIS SERIES: